GandVinEthiopia: A Day Trip to Adwa

Saturday 19 November 2011

A Day Trip to Adwa

After 7 weeks Viv finally persuaded me to stop my ‘planning and preparation’ for what turned out to be an eventful day trip to Adwa. Adwa has huge significance in Ethiopia as it was in the surrounding hills that Menelik II inflicted the biggest ever defeat on a colonial army in Africa (Italian troups) and saved Ethiopia from colonisation.

At first sight, Adwa is an uninspiring town that is under heavy construction both in the development of new roads and commercial buildings. It’s fair to say that much of it resembles a building site.

After a gentle stroll where the highlight was watching birds enjoying a small but gently flowing stream we were ready to return to Aksum. However, as we were enjoying a cooling drink we became more and more aware of people walking past us laden with goods from a nearby market. What a contrast Old Adwa turned out to be. Like Aksum, it was an incredibly colourful and vibrant scene set against a backdrop of towering hills. Much of the produce was similar to the Aksum markets until Viv came upon a woman selling cherry tomatoes; what a treat is in store for us! I have added some photographs of some characters we met at the market.

However, the most memorable moment of the day? Getting my wallet lifted during the journey from Aksum. Crammed into a mini-bus with 20 others the guy to my right was able to take my wallet from a deep, zipped pocket. Genius! All rather embarrassing really particularly as I have always felt that I take all the necessary precautions to avoid such an incident. He was able to get away with 200birr in cash and 50birr’s worth of phone cards but thankfully nothing of greater significance. Thanks to a reminder from the VSO office in Addis, Viv had photocopied our VSO ID cards and our Residency Permits the day before so all he was left with was two photocopied mugshots of myself. I hope he enjoys spending the money but feels deeply ashamed to have robbed a habisha volunteer. Somehow, I doubt it. All in all, a sharp reminder about the care we need to take with our belongings.

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Honey

First, find some containers to bring the honey home in; I borrow a big one for low grade brown honey in order to make tej (mead) for the holidays, and take my clear plastic pot for top quality white honey for eating; a lovely walk to the market at the other end of town, but where to find the honey merchant in this throng of humanity and animals? Right the way over the other side of the vast market, behind the stadium, past the camels and donkeys, after the spice and grain sellers, past the cockerals with their legs tied together to prevent escape. In a sea of brown faces this white/red woman stands out a mile like a bolisha beacon. I can hear the whispers preceding me ‘farenji, farenji, farenji’.
Here’s a young man selling honey. I can tell because his covered stall is abuzz with bees (very placid ones). I am offered a stuffed sack on the floor to sit on and lids are removed from many different coloured plastic containers for me to smell and taste the various grades on offer. I choose a white creamy one to start with and the process of bargaining begins. By this time the stall has darkened with the little group of men and children at the entrance watching and blocking out the sunlight; the seller wants 150Birrs a Kilo; I offer 50Birrs. Hoots of derision; this is fun. Some people try to help by translating - not always successfully. After many smiles we agree at 95Birrs. Then for the poor quality honey; this stuff has wax and bees all mixed in, but that’s ok; it’s going to be mixed with water and fermented for a wine anyway. Surprisingly he still wants 150Birrs for this stuff. Incredulity on my part; I offer 45Birrs a kilo and offer to buy 2 Kilos. After much laughter and fake sadness we agree 110Birrs for 2 Kilos. I’m happy, he pretends not to be, but an agreement is made. Men at the entrance nod their heads in approval. We all shake hands and I leave for a well earned cup of coffee.

Party time for the ladies

1st November 201121st Tekemt 2004
Life goes from good to better. Just come back from a party Ethiopian style. Having had lunch with Gareth (he has to come home at midday as there are no toilets in the university), and seen him back off to work, I went to our new friends house for a party. It’s all saints day in Europe but here in Ethiopia, it’s the feast of St Mariam, and my girl friends celebrate by having a get together. The men who aren’t working, sit outside in the small compound under the shade of what is left of the corn harvest with a varied array of little children. 12 women inside in the tiny hut are given a huge slab of spiced bread, made from the new wheat which is just being harvested. A big mug of Tella follows; this is partially fermented home-made beer that is very thick and looks a bit like extremely dirty dish water. I’m told it’s not too alcoholic. Surprisingly the second mug tastes better than the first. As I’ve misunderstood the need to not eat before I came, I had to decline the invitation to eat very thick injera with oily meat sauce. Thankfully my indication of a full stomach is met with howls of laughter and another mug of tella. Then our hostess comes round with a bucket of water; I’m told it’s holy water and everyone gets a good slosh of it thrown in their faces. This is the prelude to prayers. I come out in a cold sweat at the mention of the word, I look at my watch and act shocked when I see the time. I must leave and do the shopping before my husband returns home. Luckily this is understood and I’m allowed to leave. Gosh that tella was good!

GandVinEthiopia

Saturday 19 November 2011

A Day Trip to Adwa

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